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iKey WordFlow

iKey WordFlow
Step #1 Step #2 Step #3 Part #4 Part #5 Part #6 Step #7 Step #8 Step #9 Step #10 Step #11 Step #12 Step #13 Step #14

Step #1

Make sure the fobs are out of range.Make sure transmitter fobs and bypass cards are out of range (they are still in range if status LED is blinking only blue) When the Status LED is blinking only blue, this means it is reading the fobs and the system is disarmed, when testing in a garage or shop you can get an extended range because the RF signal is bouncing off the walls and tool boxes. You may need to bring the fobs more than 10 feet away or put them inside of a metal tool box.

Check power and ground.Make sure the module has power and ground. Test at the module. You should be getting our power and ground connections direct from the battery posts.

Check harness.Make sure all harnesses are snuggly plugged into the Module.

Check door lock wiring.Make sure door locks are hooked up properly. See the manual for diagrams for integration into different door lock systems.

Step #2

Check the start button.Make sure the start button is securely plugged into the module. The start button should be firmly plugged into the module, ensure the housing on the module has not been pulled loose, or this will cause a bad connection. If the housing has been pulled loose press it firmly back in place with your thumb and plug the start button back into the Module.

Check harnesses.Ensure all harnesses are securely plugged into the module.

Check the start button adaptor.If using a brushed aluminum or anodized button with the LED ring, ensure that the connector on the back of the button is plugged in properly. The right wire should be towards the dot imprinted on the back of the button.

Step #3

Check the antenna connectors.Make sure antennas are plugged into the module.

Test key fob batteries.Make sure batteries in fobs are over 3.0 volts. Our fobs use a CR2032 battery. In order for these fobs to work correctly they must see 3.0 volts coming from their batteries. Pop the batteries out of the fobs and test them with a multi-meter. If they are reading 2.99 or lower they are no longer a good battery. NOTE: You must test them with a multi-meter. The LED on the fob lighting up when you press a button does not indicate the battery is good.

Check receiving antenna.Ensure the black antenna sticking out of the back of the module is not wrapped around other wires or touching metal. This Antenna is the receiving antenna for the system. It is very important to not have this wrapped around wires or touching metal. This will dramatically reduce the range of the fobs.

Check Harnesses.Make sure all harnesses are plugged into module.

Check power and ground.Make sure the module has power and ground. Test at the module. You should be getting our power and ground connections direct from the battery posts.

Check antenna placement.Make sure antennas are not touching metal and are not located behind metal. The antennas should be mounted on glass.

Check antenna wiring.Check for breaks in the antenna wires. Check to make sure the antenna wires are not broken. Even a little cut in the wire with exposed copper can dramatically reduce the range.

Part #4

Check door lock wiring.Make sure door locks are hooked up properly. See the manual for diagrams for integration into different door lock systems.

Check harnesses.Make sure all harnesses are plugged into the module.

Part #5

Check start button.Make sure the start button is securely plugged into the module. The start button should be firmly plugged into the module. Ensure the housing on the module has not been pulled loose, or this will cause a bad connection. If the housing has been pulled loose press it firmly back in place with your thumb and plug the start button back into the module.

Check ACC1 wire.Check to make sure the ACC1 wire (yellow) is hooked up. This wire is used to turn on a set of accessories independently from the ignition, similar to that first turn of the key, typically this is wired up to power your radio. NOTE: This wire drops our during cranking.

Check harnesses.Ensure all harnesses are securely plugged into the module.

Part #6

Check ignition wiring.Check your ignition wires and make sure they are hooked up.

Check ACC2 wiring.Check your ACC 2 wire and make sure it is hooked up. Use this wire to power other accessories with the ignition. NOTE: This wire drops our during cranking.

Step #7

Check the brake switch wiring.Make sure that you the brake wire is hooked up to the brake switch and receiving 12 volts whenever the brake is depressed and that the voltage goes away when you let off the brake. Check to make sure that the jumper for brake/clutch is set for brake (this is the default position).

Check for a cold brake switch.Check to see if you have a cold brake switch. If you do not see 12 volts on either side of the brake switch when the ignition and ACC circuits off, you will need to see the diagram in the manual for how to address a cold brake switch.

LED Tail lightsIf you have LED tail lights you may be getting back feed from the LED and have some voltage coming back to the brake switch after letting off the brake, you will need to see the diagram on how to diode isolate LED tail lights.

Brake/Clutch JumperIf you set the brake/clutch jumper to clutch, check to see if the start button begins to flash with the clutch depressed instead. If not, check to ensure the brake/clutch wire is receiving a ground when the clutch is depressed and that the ground goes away when you let off the clutch. This is only if you have the brake/clutch jumper set to clutch.

Step #8

Check for back feed.This is commonly due to something else in the vehicle back feeding. Unplug our unit and see if the circuits are still energized. If the circuits are still energized you will need to find out what is back feeding into the circuits that are still powered on.

Step #9

Reprogram Tach.When reprograming tach signal, give the engine time to come to a low idle with a shorter crank time.

Step #10

Reprogram Tach.(iKEY RS) Reprogram tach signal with a longer crank time.

Check ignition wiring.Both ACC1 and ACC2 drop out during cranking. Make sure neither of these wires have anything crucial to the vehicle start and running hooked up to them. Both accessory circuits on our unit drop out during cranking. Make sure you are not powering your fuel pump or anything else crucial to the engine starting and running on these wires.

Check factory immobilizer bypass.Make sure you're using a data module/bypass module if your vehicle needs it. Some vehicles need data modules or bypass modules to interface with the vehicle's computer/immobilizer. These are used in vehicles that came with "chips" in the key. If you are unsure if your vehicle needs one, please give us a call at 877-246-5393.

Check vehicle battery.Check to make sure your vehicle's battery is providing at least 12 volts, Use a multi-meter.

Check vehicle battery under load.Make sure your vehicle's battery is not dropping below 10 volts while cranking. While the vehicle is cranking, monitor your vehicle's battery with a multi-meter. Your battery must not drop below 10 volts, or our unit will not start the vehicle.

Step #11

Check start wire.Make sure our starter wire (white) is hooked up. This is the wire that tells your starter to crank. If your vehicle needs a second start wire, use the brown start wire for the second start.

Check factory immobilizer bypass.Some vehicles need data modules or bypass modules. These are used in vehicles that come with "chips" in the key. If you are unsure if your vehicle needs one, please give us a call at 877-246-5393.

Check data module.If your vehicle requires a data module, ensure that it is flashed correctly and working.

Check data module GWR input.If you are using a data module, make sure you are controlling it with our small gauge grey/black wire. This wire turns on the data module a half-second before the unit cranks the starter.

Check vehicle battery.Make sure your vehicle's battery is providing at least 12 volts, Use a multi-meter. Monitor the battery while trying to start the vehicle and ensure voltage is not falling below 10 volts when a load is put on the battery.

Check our start/crank wire.While pressing button to crank the motor, make sure our white starter wire is putting out at least 12 volts. Test our white wire while you are attempting to crank the motor.

Check vehicle start relay.Check to make sure you have a good starter relay in your vehicle.

Check ignition wiring.Both ACC1 and ACC2 drop out during cranking. Make sure neither of these wires have anything crucial to the vehicle start and running hooked up to them. Both accessory circuits on our unit drop out during cranking. Make sure you are not powering your fuel pump or anything else crucial to the engine starting and running on these wires.

Step #12

Check the start button.Make sure the start button is securely plugged into the module. Ensure the housing on the module has not been pulled loose, or this will cause a bad connection. If the housing has been pulled loose press it firmly back in place with your thumb and plug the start button back into the module.

Check for back feed from another circuit on the vehicle.This is commonly due to something else in the vehicle back feeding. Unplug our unit and see if the circuits are still energized. If the circuits are still energized you will need to find out what is back feeding into the circuits that are still powered on.

Check brake wire.Make sure that the brake wire is hooked up to the brake switch and receiving at least 12 volts whenever the brake is depressed and that the voltage goes away when you let off the brake. Check to make sure that the jumper for brake/clutch is set for brake. (This is the default position.)

LED tail lightsIf you have LED tail lights, you may be getting back feed from the LED and have some voltage coming back to the brake switch after letting off the brake. You will need to see the diagram on how to diode isolate LED tail lights.

Brake/Clutch jumperIf you set the brake/clutch jumper to clutch, check to see if the start button begins to flash with the clutch depressed instead. If not, check to ensure the brake/clutch wire is receiving a ground when the clutch is depressed and that the ground goes away when you let off the clutch. This is only if you have the brake/clutch jumper set to clutch.

Step #13

Make sure fobs are out of range.Make sure transmitter fobs and bypass cards are out of range. (They are still in range if status LED is blinking only blue.) When the status LED is blinking only blue, this means it is reading the fobs and the system is disarmed. When testing in a garage or shop you can get an extended range because the RF signal is bouncing off the walls and tool boxes. You may need to bring the fobs more than 10 feet away or put them inside a metal tool box.

Check ignition and ACC.Make sure ignition/acc are powered off. You should not have any dash lights on and your status LED should be blinking blue-red-blue. If it is not, get in the vehicle and press the start button once. Your ignition will come on at this time. One more press will turn it off.

Step #14

Check range.Check to make sure you are within 300 feet of vehicle. Range can vary greatly depending on environment. you may experience a change in range depending on what is near you or the vehicle. Even weather can affect the range.

Check fob batteries.Make sure batteries in fobs are over 3.0 volts. Our fobs use a CR2032 battery. In order for these fobs to work correctly, they must see at least 3.0 volts coming from their batteries. Pop the batteries out of the fobs and test them with a multi-meter. If they are reading 2.99 or lower they are no longer a good battery. NOTE: You must test them with a multi-meter. The LED on the fob lighting up when you press a button does not indicate the battery is good.

Check receiving antenna.Ensure the black antenna sticking out of the back of the PKE module is not wrapped around other wires or touching metal. This Antenna is the receiving antenna for the system. It is very important to not have this wrapped around wires or touching metal, this will dramatically reduce the range of the fobs.

Check receiving antenna placement.If this is an older vehicle, make sure the receiving antenna is not completely blocked by metal.

Listen for horn honks.If the horn honks back at you and the unit does not start: 2 chirps = check the hood pin, 3 chirps = check the neutral safety, 4 chirps = check the tach signal.

We recommend changing your batteries once a year, the batteries must have a voltage of no less than 3.0Volts. If the batteries are at 2.9 Volts or less they are no longer a good battery, you will experience a decrease in range.

If they ikey system does not detect use in 5 days it will reduce its range to preserve battery life, every 5 days the system will reduce its range to preserve the life of your battery. Simply press the UNLOCK button on your transmitter and the range will readjust.

This is a question we get asked all the time from customers who are in the middle of building their car, what is most likely happening is that you are leaving the car in ACC mode and don’t have anything hooked up to that circuit yet so it is hard to tell. You can verify this by checking your heavy gauge brown wire for voltage, if it has 12V we have verified that you are in ACC mode, simply press the button one more time to go into IGN, and then a third time will shut it down. Walk away with the itag and your start button light will turn off now.

The LED on the key fob requires very little power to light up, The best way to check to see if your battery is still good or needs to be replaced is to unscrew the screws on the back of the fob, pop the battery out and use a Multi-Meter to test the battery, it should be at 3.0-3.3Volts, if it is any lower it needs to be replaced.

This is the system telling you that your vehicles battery is low; the ikey system requires your vehicles battery to be at 10 Volts + in order to operate correctly, if your battery is below 10Volts the system will reset itself. The ikey LED will blink Red-Blue-Red-Blue even while you are inside the vehicle.

Make sure the antennas are plugged in correctly and that you did not accidently plug in the bypass antenna into the main antenna harness, Ensure that the antennas are not touching metal. The antennas are a sensitive component, make sure you do not tear the jacket protecting the wires, if the wire is broken and a strand is touching metal the antenna will need to be replaced. Do NOT wrap the antenna wires around a bunch of other wires, this will cause a reduction in range from interference.

This is due to the “ikey not found reminder”, this function can be turned off by looking in your owners-manual, page 4 item 5. When your door is opened and closed such as letting a passenger out of the vehicle and then the system sees an input on the brake wire the system will search for a key fob, if one is not detected it will beep twice. The key fob may be inside the vehicle but out of range of the antennas.

Simple Answer: The unit is stuck in “Run” mode, walk it through a shutdown sequence to reset the unit, to fix it press and hold the brake, press and hold the start button for about 1.5-2 seconds and everything will shut down. Long Answer: The system is very sequence oriented since we do not monitor a Tach signal. The system was at some point walked through a start sequence, so the module believes the engine is running, to fix it press and hold the brake, press and hold the start button for about 1.5-2 seconds and everything will shut down.

Make sure your key is snug in the bypass module, ensure there are not any cuts or breaks in the antenna wire going up to your key switch. If when you depress the brake the start button DOES NOT blink, check your brake wire connection, our small gauge brown brake wire needs to receive 12Volts when the brake is depressed.