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iKey Support

iKey L Support

iKey L Workflow

iKey L Workflow
Step #1 Step #2 Step #3 Step #4 Step #5 Step #6 Step #7 Step #8 Step #9 Step #10 Step #11 Step #12 Step #13 Step #14 Step #15

Step #1

Make sure transmitter fobs and bypass cards are out of range|closed.Make sure transmitter fobs and bypass cards are out of range (they are still in range if status LED is blinking only blue) *** When the Status LED is blinking only blue, this means it is reading the fobs and the system is disarmed, when testing in a garage or shop you can get an extended range because the RF signal is bouncing off the walls and tool boxes. You may need to bring the Fobs more than 10 ft. away or stick them inside of a metal tool box.

Make sure PKE Module has power and groundMake sure PKE Module has power and ground *** Test at the Module to make sure the PKE Module is receiving 12V and a good ground.

Make sure all harnesses are plugged into PKE ModuleMake sure all harnesses are plugged into PKE Module *** The PKE Module has 6 spots where you can plug harnesses into them, all of these should be filled, if you are missing a harness that could be the solution for the issue, check the box and make sure you did not forget to hook something up. NOTE: one of the harnesses is a Y Harness, two antennas plug into this.

Make sure door locks are hooked up properlyMake sure door locks are hooked up properly *** Wiring into Factory power door locks- Make sure you did not reverse our lock and unlock wires, Blue is unlock, Green is lock. If you are wiring in your own door locks, check your circuitry and your actuators.

Make sure ACC on detect is hooked up to our ACC2 wire on the PBS ModuleMake sure ACC on detect is hooked up to our ACC2 wire on the PBS Module, this wire should not have 12V on it at this time *** Our ACC on detect wire should be hooked up to the yellow ACC2 wire on the PBS Module, this wire should only be at 12V when ACC2 is turned on. If it detects 12V the PKE Module will not passively lock or unlock the doors.

Step #2

Ensure that both Authorization wires (purple wires) are connected to each otherEnsure that both Authorization wires (purple wires) one from our Pke module and one from our PBS module are connected to each other *** Make sure these wires have a good connection to each other, this is a data connection for the two modules to communicate to each other.

Make sure the Start Button is securely plugged into the PBS ModuleMake sure the Start Button is securely plugged into the PBS Module ***The Start Button should be firmly plugged into the PBS Module, ensure the housing on the PBS Module has not been pulled loose, or this will cause a bad connection, if the housing has been pulled lock press it firmly back in place with your thumb and plug the Start Button back into the PBS Module.

Make sure PBS Module has power and groundMake sure PBS Module has power and ground *** All of the power for your vehicle is running through the PBS Module, it is HIGHLY recommended to get your power and ground directly from the battery. Check for 12V at the module as well as ground.

Ensure all Harnesses are securely plugged into PBS ModuleEnsure all Harnesses are securely plugged into PBS Module *** The PBS Module has connectors for plugging in 3 harnesses(1 Start Button, 1 Main Harness and 1 ACC Harness) all three must be securely plugged into the module.

Step #3

Make sure antennas are plugged into the PKE ModuleMake sure antennas are plugged into the PKE Module*** Make sure the Bypass Antenna is plugged in with the pigtail directly into the PKE Module, the main antennas are plugged into the Y Harness that is plugged into the PKE Module.

Make sure batteries in fobs are over 3.0VMake sure batteries in fobs are over 3.0V *** Our Fobs use a CR2032 Battery, in order for these fobs to work correctly they must see 3.0V coming from their batteries, pop the batteries out of the fobs and test them with a multi-meter, if they are reading 2.99 or lower they are no longer a good battery. NOTE: You must test them with a Multi-Meter, the LED on the fob lighting up when you press a button does not indicate the battery is good.

Check the Black Antenna wire on PKE ModuleEnsure the black antenna sticking out of the back of the PKE Module is not wrapped around around other wires or touching metal *** This Antenna is the receiving antenna for the system, it is very important to not have this wrapped around wires or touching metal, this will dramatically reduce the range of the fobs.

Ensure all Harnesses are securely plugged into PBS ModuleEnsure all Harnesses are securely plugged into PBS Module *** The PBS Module has connectors for plugging in 3 harnesses(1 Start Button, 1 Main Harness and 1 ACC Harness) all three must be securely plugged into the module.

Make sure all harnesses are plugged into PKE ModuleMake sure all harnesses are plugged into PKE Module *** The PKE Module has 6 spots where you can plug harnesses into them, all of these should be filled, if you are missing a harness that could be the solution for the issue, check the box and make sure you did not forget to hook something up. NOTE: One of the harnesses is a Y Harness, two antennas plug into this.

Make sure PKE Module has power and groundMake sure PKE Module has power and ground *** Test at the Module to Make sure the PKE Module is receiving 12V and a good ground.

Make sure Antennas are not touching metalMake sure Antennas are not touching metal *** Make sure the Antennas are not touching metal this will dramatically reduce range.

Check for breaks in the Antenna wiresCheck for breaks in the Antenna wires *** Check to make sure the Antenna Wires are not broken, even a little cut in the wire with copper stick out can and will dramatically reduce the range.

Step #4

Make Sure Door locks are hooked up properlyMake sure door locks are hooked up properly *** Wiring into Factory power door locks- Make sure you did not reverse our lock and unlock wires, Blue is unlock, Green is lock. If you are wiring in your own door locks, check your circuitry and your actuators.

Make sure all Harness are securely plugged into PKE ModuleMake sure all harnesses are plugged into PKE Module *** The PKE Module has 6 spots where you can plug harnesses into them, all of these should be filled, if you are missing a harness that could be the solution for the issue, check the box and make sure you did not forget to hook something up. NOTE: One of the harnesses is a Y Harness, two antennas plug into this.

Step #5

Ensure Start Button is firmly plugged into PBS ModuleMake sure the Start Button is securely plugged into the PBS Module ***The Start Button should be firmly plugged into the PBS Module, ensure the housing on the PBS Module has not been pulled loose, or this will cause a bad connection, if the housing has been pulled lock press it firmly back in place with your thumb and plug the Start Button back into the PBS Module.

Check to make sure the ACC2 wire (Yellow) is hooked upCheck to make sure the ACC2 wire (Yellow) is hooked up *** This wire is used to turned on a set of accessories independently from the ignition, similar to that first turn of the key, typically this is wired up to power your radio. NOTE: This wire drops our during cranking.

Check to make sure all Harnesses are securely plugged into PBS ModuleEnsure all Harnesses are securely plugged into PBS Module *** The PBS Module has connectors for plugging in 3 harnesses(1 Start Button, 1 Main Harness and 1 ACC Harness) all three must be securely plugged into the module.

Step #6

Check your Ignition Wire and make sure it is hooked up

Check your Ignition Wire and make sure it is hooked up*** Make sure this is hooked up to your ignition wire, this wire does not drop out during cranking.

Check your ACC 1 Wire and make sure it is hooked up

Check your ACC 1 Wire and make sure it is hooked up *** Use this wire to power other accessories with the ignition. NOTE: This wire drops our during cranking.

Step #7

Ensure Button is firmly plugged into PBS Module

Make sure the Start Button is securely plugged into the PBS Module ***The Start Button should be firmly plugged into the PBS Module, ensure the housing on the PBS Module has not been pulled loose, or this will cause a bad connection, if the housing has been pulled lock press it firmly back in place with your thumb and plug the Start Button back into the PBS Module.

Step #8

Check Brake wire.

Check to make sure that when you depress the brake our Brake Wire (Brown) is receiving 12V *** Make sure that whenever you depress the brake (whether the ignition is on or not) that this wire receives 12V. Check to make sure both the PBS modules brake wire and the PKE modules brake wire are receiving 12V whenever the brake is depressed. This is used to control whether you want to start the car, cycle through ACC/IGN/OFF, or shut the vehicle down when it is running.

Check to make sure all Harnesses are securely plugged into PBS Module

Ensure all Harnesses are securely plugged into PBS Module *** The PBS Module has connectors for plugging in 3 harnesses(1 Start Button, 1 Main Harness and 1 ACC Harness) all three must be securely plugged into the module.

Step #9

If installing on a Toyota

When installing on a Toyota you need to wire in a relay so that ACC1 does not drop out during cranking, otherwise the vehicle will not run, please see the ikey Toyota ACC1 Diagram to address this issue.

Check and make sure our Starter Wire (White) is hooked up

Check and make sure our Starter Wire (White) is hooked up *** This is the wire that tells your starter to crank, make sure this is hooked up properly.

Make sure your using a Data Module/Bypass Module if your vehicle needs it

Make sure you're using a Data Module/Bypass Module if your vehicle needs it *** Some vehicles need Data Modules or Bypass Modules to interface with the vehicles, these are used in vehicles that came with "chips" in the key. If you are unsure if your vehicle needs one please give us a call at 877-246-5393.

Check and make sure vehicle battery voltage is 12V.

Check and make sure vehicle battery voltage is 12V *** Check to make sure your vehicles battery is at 12V, Use a Multi-Meter.

Check Starter Wire

While pressing button to crank the motor, make sure our white Starter wire is putting out 12V *** Test our white wire while you are attempting to crank the motor, our white wire should be putting out 12V while attempting to crank.

Check Vehicles Starter Relay Click to Collapse

Check Vehicles Starter Relay*** Check to make sure you have a good Starter relay in your vehicle.

Check ACC1 and ACC2 Click to Collapse

Both ACC1 and ACC2 drop out during cranking, make sure neither of these wires have anything crucial to the vehicle start and running hooked up to them. *** Both accessory circuits on our unit drop out during cranking, make sure you are not powering your fuel pump or anything else crucial to the engine starting and running on these wires.

Step #10

(iKEY RS) Reprogram tach signal higher

(iKEY RS) Reprogram tach signal higher *** You may have programmed your Tach signal too low, if this is the case go back into tach learning mode and relearn the tach at a higher RPM.

Check ACC1 and ACC2 Click to Collapse

Both ACC1 and ACC2 drop out during cranking, make sure neither of these wires have anything crucial to the vehicle start and running hooked up to them. *** Both accessory circuits on our unit drop out during cranking, make sure you are not powering your fuel pump or anything else crucial to the engine starting and running on these wires.

Check and make sure vehicle battery voltage is 12V

Check and make sure vehicle battery voltage is 12V *** Check to make sure your vehicles battery is at 12V, Use a Multi-Meter.

TOYOTA*****

When installing on a Toyota you need to wire in a relay so that ACC1 does not drop out during cranking, otherwise the vehicle will not run, please see the ikey Toyota ACC1 Diagram to address this issue.

(iKey RS) Check Tach Source Click to Collapse

(iKey RS) Make sure you are getting your tach signal from a source we have listed on our tach learning pages *** Our unit needs to see a strong Tach clean tach signal, make sure you are getting a tach signal from a source listed in our manual, if you are getting the signal from somewhere else, the signal may be not be strong enough.

Step #11

Reprogram Tach Signal, when doing so give the engine time to come to a low idle

Reprogram Tach Signal, when doing so give the engine time to come to a low idle *** Reprogram the tach at a lower RPM, let it come down to its resting idle before exiting tach learning mode.

Check Tach Source

(ikey RS) Make sure you are getting your tach signal from a source we have listed on our tach learning pages *** Our unit needs to see a strong Tach clean tach signal, make sure you are getting a tach signal from a source listed in our manual, if you are getting the signal from somewhere else, the signal may be not be strong enough.

Step #12

Ensure Button is firmly plugged into PBS Module Click to Collapse

Make sure the Start Button is securely plugged into the PBS Module ***The Start Button should be firmly plugged into the PBS Module, ensure the housing on the PBS Module has not been pulled loose, or this will cause a bad connection, if the housing has been pulled lock press it firmly back in place with your thumb and plug the Start Button back into the PBS Module.

Check Brake Wire

Check to make sure that when you depress the brake our Brake Wire (Brown) is receiving 12V *** Make sure that whenever you depress the brake (whether the ignition is on or not) that this wire receives 12V. Check to make sure both the PBS modules brake wire and the PKE modules brake wire are receiving 12V whenever the brake is depressed. This is used to control whether you want to start the car, cycle through ACC/IGN/OFF, or shut the vehicle down when it is running.

Step #13

Make sure door locks are hooked up properly

Make sure door locks are hooked up properly *** Wiring into Factory power door locks: Make sure you did not reverse our lock and unlock wires, Blue is unlock, Green is lock. Wiring in your own door locks: Check your circuitry and your actuators.

Make sure transmitter fobs and bypass cards are out of range.

Make sure transmitter fobs and bypass cards are out of range (they are still in range if status LED is blinking only blue) *** When the Status LED is blinking only blue, this means it is reading the fobs and the system is disarmed, when testing in a garage or shop you can get an extended range because the RF signal is bouncing off the walls and tool boxes. You may need to bring the Fobs more than 10 ft. away or stick them inside of a metal tool box.

Make sure ignition/acc are powered off

Make sure ignition/acc are powered off *** You should not have any dash lights on and your Status LED should be blinking blue-red-blue. If it is not get in the vehicle and press the start button once, your ignition will come on at this time point, one more press will turn it off.

Check ACC on detect wire

Make sure ACC on detect is hooked up to our ACC2 wire on the PBS Module, this wire should not have 12V on it at this time *** Our ACC on detect wire should be hooked up to the yellow ACC2 wire on the PBS Module, this wire should only be at 12V when ACC2 is turned on. If it detects 12V the PKE Module will not passively lock or unlock the doors.

Step #14

Check Neutral safety wire

Check Neutral safety wire, make sure it is going to ground when the vehicle is in neutral *** This wire needs to be see a ground in order to let the remote start engage.

Check Wait to start wire

Check Wait to start wire, if this is not a diesel vehicle it should be capped off. *** This wire is hooked up to your wait to start light for diesel applications, to give the glow plugs time to heat up.

Make sure ACC on Detect wire is not receiving 12V

Make sure ACC on detect is hooked up to our ACC2 wire on the PBS Module, this wire should not have 12V on it at this time *** Our ACC on detect wire should be hooked up to the yellow ACC2 wire on the PBS Module, this wire should only be at 12V when ACC2 is turned on. If it detects 12V the PKE Module will not passively lock or unlock the doors.

Step #15

Check to make sure you are within 100 FT of vehicle move closer to vehicle and try again Click to collapse

Check to make sure you are within 100 FT of vehicle move closer to vehicle and try again *** Range can vary greatly depending on environment, you may be change in range depending on what is near you or the vehicle even weather can affect the range.

Check to make sure the transmitter batteries have 3.0V Click to collapse

Make sure batteries in fobs are over 3.0V *** Our Fobs use a CR2032 Battery, in order for these fobs to work correctly they must see 3.0V coming from their batteries, pop the batteries out of the fobs and test them with a multi-meter, if they are reading 2.99 or lower they are no longer a good battery. NOTE: You must test them with a Multi-Meter, the LED on the fob lighting up when you press a button does not indicate the battery is good.

Check Antenna wire on PKE Module Click to collapse

Ensure the black antenna sticking out of the back of the PKE Module is not wrapped around around other wires or touching metal *** This Antenna is the receiving antenna for the system, it is very important to not have this wrapped around wires or touching metal, this will dramatically reduce the range of the fobs.

If this is an older vehicle make sure antenna is not completely block by metal Click to collapse

If this is an older vehicle make sure the receiving antenna is not completely block by metal *** The receiving antenna is the small black wire sticking out the back of the PKE Module, on older cars with metal dashes do your best to make sure this antenna is not surrounded by metal, or other wires as this can dramatically reduce range.

Much like a Bypass Module, a Data Integration Module preforms the same immobilizer bypass functions but additionally interfaces with other vehicle systems such as door locks, Ignition circuits etc. Many modern vehicles use integrated electrical systems that network many electrical components in your vehicle. A Data Integration Module speaks to the factory computer in its native language. As with Bypass modules, there are several brands of these products, all good in quality and they are available from any alarm installation shop.

If you attempt to Remote Start the vehicle and the starter cranks the engine but does not start. You may have either an issue with the vehicles immobilizer not receiving valid bypass signal or a poor tach signal. If the vehicle does starts and runs for at least 5 seconds it is likely not an immobilizer issue. Make sure you have a valid tach signal and that the system learned the Tach Signal. In some cases learning the Tach Signal at a higher RPM will resolve this issue. If you suspect you might have a poor tach signal; Find a new source for the tach signal.

This is almost always an engine monitoring issue. If you are using a “tach” wire from a Data module or other computer wire try using an injector wire or coil wire instead and re-learn the signal.

Before Start, Make sure the buttons Blue outer ring is flashing when the brake is applied. Make sure the shifter is in the Park or Neutral position. If this is a manual transmission vehicle, the clutch will need to be depressed Check voltage and for open fuses on the main 8 pin harness Battery 12V+ inputs Check Connections. Make sure that all harnesses connectors are fully plugged into the module with no back out pins and it is making solid connections to the vehicle wiring

Does the vehicle have an immobilizer? The vehicle’s immobilizer can cut the fuel and/or spark during an unauthorized start and it needs to be bypassed with a bypass or data module Is the system programmed for Tach Ignition? If so, reprogram the Tach Signal it may be too low. See Tach Reprogramming

Is the system programmed for Tach Ignition? If so, Follow “Reprogram Tach Ignition” steps as shown. Check the connection to the vehicle’s tach wire and make sure the wire is not broken or shorted to ground leading to the system. Try moving the Tach wire to another source, I.E. Negative Coil or Injector.

As a safety feature to prevent power sag/flash or sudden loss of power while the system is running (Run Mode), it will default back to RUN Mode when power is resumed. To exit RUN Mode, apply the brake and press and hold the button for 2+ secs to switch back to READY or OFF Mode.

Check the battery voltage. There may not be enough power to crank the engine and keep the system running at the same time. The system requires a minimum 10V to operate and if the voltage drops below 10V while the starter is engaged it will effectively turn OFF the system. This will cause the Ignition/Start to drop out simultaneously. Be sure 12V+ supply wires are connected directly to the battery or main power supply at a fuse block. Also make sure system is grounded to a battery or a chassis ground terminal,( DO NOT ground with a tap screw).

Some vehicles do not supply power to the brake switch when the vehicle is in the OFF state. The Brake input becomes active only when the vehicle is in ACC or Ignition (ON) state. If so, look for an alternative brake output signal from the vehicle or install a separate 12V brake supply wire to the brake switch. Connect to the brake switch supply side and diode isolate the existing brake supply wire (Diode band towards the switch side of the existing wire).

Yes, Our system provides a ground signal so that you can control a relay that will power your parking lights.

You will need to hook up the wait to start wire to your wait to start light, this will allow your glow plugs a chance to heat up.

This is due to the “ikey not found reminder”, this function can be turned off by looking in your owners-manual, page 4 item 5. When your door is opened and closed such as letting a passenger out of the vehicle and then the system sees an input on the brake wire the system will search for a key fob, if one is not detected it will beep twice. The key fob may be inside the vehicle but out of range of the antennas.

If you leave range of the vehicle with the fob while the vehicle Is still running, the vehicle will beep at you letting you know that you have left the vehicle running.

LED Brake lights are known to retain voltage on the cold side of the Brake switch even when the vehicle is turned Off and the Brake is not being depressed. This becomes a problem in that the iKEY system interprets voltage on the cold Brake line to mean the Brake pedal is being pressed and triggering the alarm since it does not see a valid fob in range, In this case it is necessary to add a diode in line (band facing the switch) to prevent back feeding voltage.

Installs typically take 4-6 hours depending on the vehicle.

The install difficulty is comparable to your typical hardwired remote start system.

The ikey series systems provide numerous outputs you can use to control a data or bypass module.

There are a few different ways to handle steering column locks, we recommend the cut key method, this entails getting a copy of the key made, testing the new key to make sure it works the ignition switch, cutting the head off the key blade leaving enough of the blade for your to stick it in the ignition and turning it to run to unlock the column. Once our system is fully installed your key switch is simply a mechanical lock. Another method is to go into the steering column lock and physically disabling it. If the steering column lock is electric, you can use one of our outputs to disable it as well..

There are many different ways to hook up aftermarket power door locks, as well as different actuator types. We recommend our 2-wire reversing gun-type actuators with our door lock module to make for a simple install. Our system can work with any of the common set ups out there, it is important to note that our outputs are trigger wires and you can NOT hook up out unlock/lock wires directly to your actuators.

Our ikey series uses a few different antennas to optimize range and environment can effect range. First make sure all antennas are mounted horizontal, as well as not touching any metal, also inspect for breaks in the wire the jacket. If this is going into a classic vehicle that is made of all metal you may need to try other locations of the antennas to ensure good range. Also make sure the small black antenna that is sticking out of the PKE is hanging loose and free from other wires, this is the receiving antenna. You may notice a slight decrease in range during heavy snow or rain due to the nature of RF.

When testing range it is important to test out in the open like a parking lot, driveway or street. If testing in a shop/garage you may notice a longer than advertised range because the RF signal is going to bounce off of all the walls/tool boxes etc. You may notice longer range when in a parking garage as well.

When you are in range of the system with a key fob, you are not able to manually lock/unlock the doors as the system sees that you are in range of the vehicle, it will keep the doors unlocked while you are near it. If you want to test the manual lock/unlock with the fob make sure you are out of range, the system status LED will blink Blue-Red-Blue when you are out of range.

The vehicle’s Tachometer signal tells the iKey system how fast your engine is running. The iKey uses this information to determine how long to crank the vehicles Starter as well as to determine if the vehicle is running or not. For this process to work correctly the iKey needs to have its (Yellow) Engine Tach wire (from the Accessory harness of the PBS module) connected to a good Tach source from the vehicle and to “Learn” the Tachometer signal, so it can remote start the vehicle and monitor the engine RPM’s.

A tachometer source can be found in many places in a vehicle. The recommended location for a finding a good tachometer source is: The Negative side of the Ignition coil A Fuel Injector control wire On injectors there are typically two wires. One will be a common color at each injector and the other will be a different color or have a different colored stripe at each injector. The non-common color wire is the correct wire to use. Other possible tach sources: The Crankshaft position sensor (Use for Diesel) The Engine control module (ECM) Non-Recommended tach sources: A Data Module Output Behind the dash at the Tach gauge.

Always route the tachometer wire away from any ignition and/or spark plug wires. A common problem is tachometer wire routing. If a tachometer wire is not routed correctly it can cause a “Dirty Tach Signal. If a tachometer wire is routed under the hood to a coil or injector wire and the wire is routed adjacent to or wire tied to a spark plug wire or ignition harness it can radiate interference that makes the tach signal hard to read. It can also cause a rough idle or miss fire condition.

If your first attempt at Tach learning is unsuccessful there could be one or more different causes. All cars are different and some are easier to learn the Tach signal on then others, it’s not uncommon to repeat the Tach learning process a few times to get everything working smoothly. If you are confident you have securely connected the iKey’s Yellow Tach wire to a recommended source and route it properly. Simply repeat the learning process one or two more times to see if this solves your issue You may also want to try improving the signal strength by revving the motor up a few hundred RPM’s and then pressing & releasing the Brake pedal.

A dirty signal means that there is too much “noise” (interference) mixed with the Tach signal on the line making the actual Tach signal hard to lock on to. This is a condition often seen in high-performance engines that have some type of spark “boost” device like a MSD Ignition or other similar system installed. A dirty Tach signal can also be caused by poor routing of the Yellow tach wire.

To properly test a tachometer wire in a vehicle will require a Digital Multi Meter capable of measuring AC voltage. Note that a typical tachometer signal is not true AC voltage but pulsed, DC voltage. A Digital Multi Meter is not fast enough to read the pulsed DC voltage and this is why you need to use the AC voltage setting. Set the meter to AC voltage. Connect the negative Meter lead to a good chassis ground in the vehicle and the positive lead to the suspected tachometer wire. Start the vehicle and wait for it to idle down to normal idle speed. At this point the meter should be displaying a fairly constant AC voltage. If this is the case, rev the motor up and down and observe the reading on the meter. The AC voltage should rise when the engine RPM’s rise and fall when the engine RPM’s fall. Locate a tach source that has at least 3V AC at or slightly about idle speed. NOTE: DO NOT USE any other method to test a tachometer wire such as a test light, this can cases damage the vehicle!

Some vehicles/motors can be a bit tricky to get a good tach signal from, If you are doing an LS swap and want to add remote start you are going to want to get a tach adapter as the LS motor is notorious for having a dirty Tach signal. A Tach adapter generates a square tach signal meaning it is a perfectly clean signal. We recommend using an Auto Meter 9117 Tach adapter or If you want a plug and play tach adapter for LS motors we recommend Auto Meter 9123.

A Bypass Module makes it possible to connect after-market electronics into a modern networked vehicle ignition system. A car with “Chip in the Key” an Immobilizer Interface has a coded ignition cylinder, meaning without the proper chip key, the vehicle will not start. When you push the start button of your system the Bypass Module will allow the vehicle to “see” the correct key, and start just like the key was in the car. Most all Remote Start installations of any brand product require either a Bypass (or Data) module. There are several brands of these products, all good in quality and they are available for a nominal cost from any alarm installation shop.