iKey Support

What is a Data Integration module?

Much like a Bypass Module, a Data Integration Module preforms the same immobilizer bypass functions but additionally interfaces with other vehicle systems such as door locks, Ignition circuits etc. Many modern vehicles use integrated electrical systems that network many electrical components in your vehicle. A Data Integration Module speaks to the factory computer in its native language. As with Bypass modules, there are several brands of these products, all good in quality and they are available from any alarm installation shop.

When I Remote Start the vehicle it starts & immediately dies, It tries three times & then stops trying, What is going on?

If you attempt to Remote Start the vehicle and the starter cranks the engine but does not start. You may have either an issue with the vehicles immobilizer not receiving valid bypass signal or a poor tach signal. If the vehicle does starts and runs for at least 5 seconds it is likely not an immobilizer issue. Make sure you have a valid tach signal and that the system learned the Tach Signal. In some cases learning the Tach Signal at a higher RPM will resolve this issue. If you suspect you might have a poor tach signal; Find a new source for the tach signal.

The start stays engaged for several seconds after the vehicle is running, What is going on ?

This is almost always an engine monitoring issue. If you are using a “tach” wire from a Data module or other computer wire try using an injector wire or coil wire instead and re-learn the signal.

The Push-Start will activate ACC and ON but the engine will not crank when I start?

Before Start, Make sure the buttons Blue outer ring is flashing when the brake is applied. Make sure the shifter is in the Park or Neutral position. If this is a manual transmission vehicle, the clutch will need to be depressed Check voltage and for open fuses on the main 8 pin harness Battery 12V+ inputs Check Connections. Make sure that all harnesses connectors are fully plugged into the module with no back out pins and it is making solid connections to the vehicle wiring

The Vehicle Starts but then immediately stop:

Does the vehicle have an immobilizer? The vehicle’s immobilizer can cut the fuel and/or spark during an unauthorized start and it needs to be bypassed with a bypass or data module Is the system programmed for Tach Ignition? If so, reprogram the Tach Signal it may be too low. See Tach Reprogramming

The Vehicle starts, but the starter over/under cranks when starting;

Is the system programmed for Tach Ignition? If so, Follow “Reprogram Tach Ignition” steps as shown. Check the connection to the vehicle’s tach wire and make sure the wire is not broken or shorted to ground leading to the system. Try moving the Tach wire to another source, I.E. Negative Coil or Injector.

Why is the system turning on the ignition every time I connect power to it?

As a safety feature to prevent power sag/flash or sudden loss of power while the system is running (Run Mode), it will default back to RUN Mode when power is resumed. To exit RUN Mode, apply the brake and press and hold the button for 2+ secs to switch back to READY or OFF Mode.

Why does the system drop out when I attempt to crank the engine?

Check the battery voltage. There may not be enough power to crank the engine and keep the system running at the same time. The system requires a minimum 10V to operate and if the voltage drops below 10V while the starter is engaged it will effectively turn OFF the system. This will cause the Ignition/Start to drop out simultaneously. Be sure 12V+ supply wires are connected directly to the battery or main power supply at a fuse block. Also make sure system is grounded to a battery or a chassis ground terminal,( DO NOT ground with a tap screw).

Why do I have the butting twice to start the engine ?

Some vehicles do not supply power to the brake switch when the vehicle is in the OFF state. The Brake input becomes active only when the vehicle is in ACC or Ignition (ON) state. If so, look for an alternative brake output signal from the vehicle or install a separate 12V brake supply wire to the brake switch. Connect to the brake switch supply side and diode isolate the existing brake supply wire (Diode band towards the switch side of the existing wire).

Do I need to use relays if I want to wire up the parking lights?

Yes, Our system provides a ground signal so that you can control a relay that will power your parking lights.

I have a diesel, how do I wire in remote start?

You will need to hook up the wait to start wire to your wait to start light, this will allow your glow plugs a chance to heat up.

Why does the horn randomly beep twice at me?

This is due to the “ikey not found reminder”, this function can be turned off by looking in your owners-manual, page 4 item 5. When your door is opened and closed such as letting a passenger out of the vehicle and then the system sees an input on the brake wire the system will search for a key fob, if one is not detected it will beep twice. The key fob may be inside the vehicle but out of range of the antennas.

What happens if you exit the vehicle with the fob and leave range while the engine is running?

If you leave range of the vehicle with the fob while the vehicle Is still running, the vehicle will beep at you letting you know that you have left the vehicle running.

If you have aftermarket LED BRAKE LIGHTS:

LED Brake lights are known to retain voltage on the cold side of the Brake switch even when the vehicle is turned Off and the Brake is not being depressed. This becomes a problem in that the iKEY system interprets voltage on the cold Brake line to mean the Brake pedal is being pressed and triggering the alarm since it does not see a valid fob in range, In this case it is necessary to add a diode in line (band facing the switch) to prevent back feeding voltage.

How long should an install take?

Installs typically take 4-6 hours depending on the vehicle.

How difficult is the install?

The install difficulty is comparable to your typical hardwired remote start system.

How does the system handle the factory immobilizer?

The ikey series systems provide numerous outputs you can use to control a data or bypass module.

How does the system handle steering column locks?

There are a few different ways to handle steering column locks, we recommend the cut key method, this entails getting a copy of the key made, testing the new key to make sure it works the ignition switch, cutting the head off the key blade leaving enough of the blade for your to stick it in the ignition and turning it to run to unlock the column. Once our system is fully installed your key switch is simply a mechanical lock. Another method is to go into the steering column lock and physically disabling it. If the steering column lock is electric, you can use one of our outputs to disable it as well.

My vehicle doesn’t have power door locks how do I hook them up?

There are many different ways to hook up aftermarket power door locks, as well as different actuator types. We recommend our 2-wire reversing gun-type actuators with our door lock module to make for a simple install. Our system can work with any of the common set ups out there, it is important to note that our outputs are trigger wires and you can NOT hook up out unlock/lock wires directly to your actuators.

Why is my range shorter than advertised?

Our ikey series uses a few different antennas to optimize range and environment can effect range. First make sure all antennas are mounted horizontal, as well as not touching any metal, also inspect for breaks in the wire the jacket. If this is going into a classic vehicle that is made of all metal you may need to try other locations of the antennas to ensure good range. Also make sure the small black antenna that is sticking out of the PKE is hanging loose and free from other wires, this is the receiving antenna. You may notice a slight decrease in range during heavy snow or rain due to the nature of RF.

Why is my range longer than advertised?

When testing range it is important to test out in the open like a parking lot, driveway or street. If testing in a shop/garage you may notice a longer than advertised range because the RF signal is going to bounce off of all the walls/tool boxes etc. You may notice longer range when in a parking garage as well.

Why am I unable to manually lock/unlock with the key fob?

When you are in range of the system with a key fob, you are not able to manually lock/unlock the doors as the system sees that you are in range of the vehicle, it will keep the doors unlocked while you are near it. If you want to test the manual lock/unlock with the fob make sure you are out of range, the system status LED will blink Blue-Red-Blue when you are out of range.

What is the Engine Tach Wire?

The vehicle’s Tachometer signal tells the iKey system how fast your engine is running. The iKey uses this information to determine how long to crank the vehicles Starter as well as to determine if the vehicle is running or not. For this process to work correctly the iKey needs to have its (Yellow) Engine Tach wire (from the Accessory harness of the PBS module) connected to a good Tach source from the vehicle and to “Learn” the Tachometer signal, so it can remote start the vehicle and monitor the engine RPM’s.

How do I locate a good Tach source?

A tachometer source can be found in many places in a vehicle. The recommended location for a finding a good tachometer source is: The Negative side of the Ignition coil A Fuel Injector control wire On injectors there are typically two wires. One will be a common color at each injector and the other will be a different color or have a different colored stripe at each injector. The non-common color wire is the correct wire to use. Other possible tach sources: The Crankshaft position sensor (Use for Diesel) The Engine control module (ECM) Non-Recommended tach sources: A Data Module Output Behind the dash at the Tach gauge

How Do I route the Engine Tach wire?

Always route the tachometer wire away from any ignition and/or spark plug wires. A common problem is tachometer wire routing. If a tachometer wire is not routed correctly it can cause a “Dirty Tach Signal. If a tachometer wire is routed under the hood to a coil or injector wire and the wire is routed adjacent to or wire tied to a spark plug wire or ignition harness it can radiate interference that makes the tach signal hard to read. It can also cause a rough idle or miss fire condition.

Unsuccessful attempt at Tach learning:

If your first attempt at Tach learning is unsuccessful there could be one or more different causes. All cars are different and some are easier to learn the Tach signal on then others, it’s not uncommon to repeat the Tach learning process a few times to get everything working smoothly. If you are confident you have securely connected the iKey’s Yellow Tach wire to a recommended source and route it properly. Simply repeat the learning process one or two more times to see if this solves your issue You may also want to try improving the signal strength by revving the motor up a few hundred RPM’s and then pressing & releasing the Brake pedal.

What is a dirty Tach signal?

A dirty signal means that there is too much “noise” (interference) mixed with the Tach signal on the line making the actual Tach signal hard to lock on to. This is a condition often seen in high-performance engines that have some type of spark “boost” device like a MSD Ignition or other similar system installed. A dirty Tach signal can also be caused by poor routing of the Yellow tach wire.

How do I test to confirm I have a good tach signal ?

To properly test a tachometer wire in a vehicle will require a Digital Multi Meter capable of measuring AC voltage. Note that a typical tachometer signal is not true AC voltage but pulsed, DC voltage. A Digital Multi Meter is not fast enough to read the pulsed DC voltage and this is why you need to use the AC voltage setting. Set the meter to AC voltage. Connect the negative Meter lead to a good chassis ground in the vehicle and the positive lead to the suspected tachometer wire. Start the vehicle and wait for it to idle down to normal idle speed. At this point the meter should be displaying a fairly constant AC voltage. If this is the case, rev the motor up and down and observe the reading on the meter. The AC voltage should rise when the engine RPM’s rise and fall when the engine RPM’s fall. Locate a tach source that has at least 3V AC at or slightly about idle speed. NOTE: DO NOT USE any other method to test a tachometer wire such as a test light, this can cases damage the vehicle!

What if I can’t get a good Tach signal?

Some vehicles/motors can be a bit tricky to get a good tach signal from, If you are doing an LS swap and want to add remote start you are going to want to get a tach adapter as the LS motor is notorious for having a dirty Tach signal. A Tach adapter generates a square tach signal meaning it is a perfectly clean signal. We recommend using an Auto Meter 9117 Tach adapter or If you want a plug and play tach adapter for LS motors we recommend Auto Meter 9123.

What is a Bypass Module?

A Bypass Module makes it possible to connect after-market electronics into a modern networked vehicle ignition system. A car with “Chip in the Key” an Immobilizer Interface has a coded ignition cylinder, meaning without the proper chip key, the vehicle will not start. When you push the start button of your system the Bypass Module will allow the vehicle to “see” the correct key, and start just like the key was in the car. Most all Remote Start installations of any brand product require either a Bypass (or Data) module. There are several brands of these products, all good in quality and they are available for a nominal cost from any alarm installation shop.